Day 7-9: Skinny dipping in Nqileni

The same friend who led us to  the best food spots in Kysna suggested we forego Coffee Bay for a soulful experience at the scenic village called Nqileni.

So far our “tour guide” had made recommendations which we were happy with, but I still went online to find out what this “magical village” is like, you know just to be sure. They spoke of horse riding, mqombothi (home brewed beer) tasting, traditional Xhosa food, canoeing, fishing, secret beaches, hiking, herbal tours, waterfalls and all I wanted was to be put in a time capsule and find myself there instantly.

This village has the most dramatic and breathtaking coastline you will ever lay your eyes on in South Africa (in my opinion). We slept in an ocean facing hut and from the room I could see the waves crashing into the mountains and the slight fog just made it all so dreamy and poetic.

Make friends with your road map
When we bid Tsitsikamma farewell and began our journey to this magical village, we didn’t know how hard it would be find. We missed our first turn off and found ourselves in Coffee Bay, I wanted to cry when we realised we were over 60km away from our destination. My bum was sour and I couldn’t get past a single page of the book I was reading, basically both Himself and myself were exhausted and hungry and tempers were rising. The only thing we wanted at that time was a shower and a warm plate of food.

Foot Note: Getting to Bulungula Lodge is tricky, Tom Tom will only get you as far as Zithulele. Download a map beforehand.

Be prepared to be blown away
When you find this village you will know without being told. I’m a rural bumpkin myself, but I will be the first to tell you in all my existence I had never seen such a stunning place, the remoteness of it just adds to its beauty. It’s hard to imagine that such places exist. The beach is quiet you can swim naked without being seen. The following morning, I went jogging towards south, just in time to catch the sunrise and I was fortunate enough to see the ever elusive secret beach, which had magically disappeared when I went back with the hope of showing it to Himself.

Accommodation, food and activities
We stayed at Bulungula Lodge which comprises of a campsite and huts. The nearest town is at least an hour away, so we booked our meals at the lodge including dessert all close to nothing! You will be blown away by the friendliness of the villagers. On our walks along the coast, we often stopped to converse with the locals and they would offer us oysters and mussels to nibble on. Accommodation is reasonably priced, and tents are even cheaper.

Staying at Bulungula Lodge was such a wonderful experience and to be able to share it with someone who loves the outdoors as much as I do was incredibly special.